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Is there any easy way to create real thread with terminating thread (thread cut) other than helical sweep? like an add-on to pro engineer.
I am using WF 5.0, we want to use 3D printer to make a bolt.
Thanks
I know all to well what you are asking here, Zhanbo. Helical sweeps are "incomplete".
Does your WF5 have the Wrap feature? I did a recent document with a video on using wrap to manage more complex helical sweeps. This works great if you know how to work with relations and using sketches to manage the geometric details.
Have a look and see if this helps with creating a more complete thread in a single sweep cut:
Closed and Ground Spring - Alternative to Helical Sweep
Otherwise, I have gone in after the sweep and create undercuts for external threads. The lead-in thread is always a 45 degree chamfer to at least the max thread diameter.
I have created very functional threads for STL grown parts. Just make sure you provide sufficient clearance to accommodate your system's accuracy. Of course, you can also use taps and dies to clean up or create the threads after growing the parts.
As Antonius mentioned, you can use a wrap, or you can use a curve by equation for a trajectory. Wrap is a little easier as it's visual.
Why use a printer for a bolt, is it some kind of weird custom bolt? With the resolution of the printers, I'd simply model it with the correct major dia, and (carefully!) use a die. You'll get a much better working thread. The same for internal threads, go with the tap drill dia, and use a tap.
I agree with Frank. Unless really special, 3D printed thread will not have a lot of strength. Almosted better going with a solid piece of plastic and using a die as Frank mentioned. Maybe a 3D head of a bolt but not even sure about that.
Dale; I have printed 3D threads on custom parts with great success. As long as the pitch is reasonably course greater than 6mm or 1/4", you can easily model a functional thread for the higher end printers. You also have the advantage that you can now control the start of the thread for critical rotational mating orientations as well as nominal interference levels by adjusting thread clearances.
You cannot torque on 3D printed threads, but 3D printers can make some very tough parts these days. The problem is more torque sheer than stress on the threads. A $50K machine can easily make production grade nylon parts with very functional threads. With the new metal compounds, you are getting into the realm of light duty casting quality.
I see every reason for someone to come up with a good library of thread cutting UDF's in Creo to take advantage of this market opportunity and expanded SLA capabilities.
True, if you have a specific start/stop you need. When I worked for Moen, we needed to actually model threads for our plumbing fixtures, so the tool designers could create the spinning cores for the internal threads.
3D printers are nice, I worked at a place that had 2 large SLA machines in-house. The one thing I will say, is that I think people vastly overuse them for prototypes. There are some parts that are made cheaper, faster, and far more functional if machined vs. using a printer. After working there for a coupe years, I came to the conclusion that for simpler parts, machine them, and save the SLA/DFM processes for really complicated surfaces like cosmetic/ergonomic parts (especially with multiple colors/durometers), or castings (especially with internal passages) that would be too difficult to set up for a prototype. And with the 5-axis desktop machines available now that can easily do these surfaces quickly and cheaply in REAL plastic, I'd say that even less parts should really be made on a printer.
Really, a thorough evaluation of the parts is needed. For instance, on the prototypes I'm having made for my new design, I'm having all the parts machined, in stainless, aluminum, and PEEK. At the end, I will have parts I can functionally test undere our real working conditions. In contrast, the design house we used for the earlier design we're replacing, made all their early prototypes in SLA, and as such they're completely non-functional. Just be careful to evaluate your needs before deciding on a method.
Sorry, I did not describe it clearly. we just bought the 3D ptinter, and want to see how accurately the printer will produce threads.
I already finished the model with helicale sweep, just curious if there are any easy ways to model and manipulate this kind of feature. I will try to model the bolt with the methods from both of you again.
Thanks a lot.