How do I combine several freeform shapes to make an object that can be exported as an .STL file?
The eyes and nose of this animal are seperate freeform objects. I would like to extrude a cut through the "snout" to make a mouth. I'm sure somewhere I saw a command to convert freeform to object- I'm looking for some kind of boolean add command I think!
Peter, I love the character you have created.
You now have a solid that can have the mouth shape removed maybe with a symmetric extrude.
A zip of a model I created applying this technique is attached.
Struggling with this.
Todays design intent....
I've modelled the fairy (weight for a ballon) have managed to combine the hear and the wings but cannot get the body to merge/solidify. I suspect it it because it is self intersecting.
I've attached the file
Many thanks for your help.
You mention the most common reason for a shape failing to solidy/thicken.
Look out for very tight curves and also the control frame overlapping. If solidify wont work try thicken with a very thin section. Creo should thicken most of the model (grey) but not the problem areas (blue) which help focus in on the surfaces that need tweaking..
I tried downloaded the zip file to take a look but the part had the wrong extension.
Try uploading the native Creo part file and I will have a look.
I've done a modified file that is printing- but the figure is less well resolved. I've got a student working on a similar design and she made good progress today. Please find ttached the native file.
Best regards and it great to have quick feedback
You've done a great job so far.
The generic name for freestyle is 'sub-division' modelling which gives a clue to how it works.
There are some great YouTube videos that explain the principles and demonstrations. Take a look at these two:
I had a go at the body/head part of the Fairey. My model is attached.
Up to now I've modelled mostly cars for Scalextric4Schools.
Picture of the 3D print.... went off a bit at the top of the wings.
Cheap 3D printers build at room temperature and rely on the heated bed to keep the model close to melting point. The taller the model the cooler it gets and layers don't fuse together. Have you tried enclosing the machine to prevent draughts from cooling the model? You could also try heating the build chamber to just below the glass transition point for the plastic which should help a lot. Stratysys patented the enclosed chamber which is why other manufacturers can't use that technique.
Did you see the small tripod I designed for 3D printing? http://communities.ptc.com/docs/DOC-4610